DOI: 10.3724/SP.J.1123.2010.00089

Chinese Journal of Chromatography (色谱) 2010/28:1 PP.89-92

Determination of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and niacinamide in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography

A high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for the determination of two optical isomers of arbutin (α-arbutin and β-arbutin) and niacinamide in cosmetics was developed. The samples were extracted by the mixture of salt water and chloroform (2:1, v/v). The separation was performed on an ODS-BP column (200 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm, Elite) with methanol-water (10:90, v/v) as the mobile phase at a flow rate of 0.5 mL/min and 25 ℃. The detection wavelength was set at 220 nm and the sample injection volume was 20 μL. There were good linear relationships between the mass concentration and the peak areas of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and niacinamide in the ranges of 0.07~50, 0.06~50 and 0.05~50 mg/L, respectively. The relative standard deviations (RSDs, n=7) of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and niacinamide were 1.65%, 1.73% and 1.33%, respectively. The proposed method has been applied for the determination of α-arbutin, β-arbutin and niacinamide in cosmetics with recoveries of 91.7%~109.6%. This method is rapid, simple and suitable for the detection of whitening ingredients in cosmetic.

Key words:high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC),α-arbutin,β-arbutin,niacinamide,cosmetics

ReleaseDate:2014-07-21 15:10:26

[1] Huang S C, Huang B F, Chen Q J, et al. Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics (黄少嫦, 黄百芬, 陈青俊, 等. 香料香精化妆品), 2001(1): 13

[2] Guo J, Xu P, Jin L Y. Ningxia Medical Journal (郭静, 徐平, 金立元. 宁夏医学杂志), 2008, 30(3): 281

[3] Yan X Y, Tang X F, Wang X Y, et al. Information on Traditional Chinese Medicine (阎雪莹, 唐晓飞, 王雪莹, 等. 中医药信息), 2007, 24(4): 18

[4] Hu J M, Duan H J, Zhao Y C. Journal of Hygiene Research (胡俊明, 段鹤君, 赵月朝. 卫生研究), 2003, 32(5): 499

[5] Zhu Y, Yang Y W, Zhang T H. Journal of Environment and Health (朱英, 杨艳伟, 张天昊. 环境与健康杂志), 2007, 24(4): 260

[6] Lin C H, Wu H L, Huang Y L. J Chromatogr B, 2005, 829: 149

[7] Liu X T, Wang Q X, Gao H W. Physical Testing and Chemical Analysis, Part B: Chemical Analysis (刘心同, 汪庆祥, 高宏伟. 理化检验: 化学分册), 2008, 44(3): 209

[8] Patam M, Pan J Y, Hong X Y, et al. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics (帕它木\5莫合买提, 潘建英, 洪新宇, 等. 日用化学工业), 2004, 34(5): 296

[9] Hakozakit T, Minwallal L, Zhuang J, et al. Br J Dermatol, 2002, 147: 20

[10] Zhou H, Wu X F, Zhang X W, et al. China Public Health (周桦, 吴晓芳, 张晓炜, 等. 中国公共卫生), 2002, 18(5): 584

[11] Liu S. Chinese Journal of Chromatography (柳松. 色谱), 2004, 22(6): 660

[12] Zhou F, Lu D Q. Journal of Nantong Vocational College (周烽, 卢定强. 南通职业大学学报), 2008, 22(1): 97

[13] Barsoom B N, Abdelsamad A M E, Adib N M. Spectrochim Acta A, 2006, 64(4): 844

[14] Shi J, Liu R, Chen H J. Journal of Modern Applied Pharmacy (石娟, 刘瑞, 陈慧娟. 现代应用药学), 2003, 20(5): 411